Antigua's national dish — ducana (sweet potato dumplings) with saltfish and chop-up (a stewed vegetable medley) — is the place to start. The island's food culture blends British colonial and West African traditions; the result is less French-influenced than Martinique but no less interesting. English Harbour has the best concentration of sailing-world restaurants in the eastern Caribbean, ranging from beachside rum bars to the Admiral's Inn.
English Harbour and Nelson's Dockyard
The Admiral's Inn, inside Nelson's Dockyard, is the classic sailors' restaurant in the Caribbean — a 1788 Georgian building converted to a hotel and restaurant, with a terrace overlooking the inner harbour. The menu is more international than local but the setting is exceptional. The Copper and Lumber Store Hotel bar next door is better for a drink. For something more local, Boom Restaurant at the Antigua Yacht Club Marina does a good grilled lobster (in season, September to April) and has a lively bar attached to the sailing community.
Shirley Heights
The Sunday barbecue at Shirley Heights (the hilltop fortification above English Harbour) is one of the Antigua institutions — steel band until sunset, then a DJ, barbecued chicken and lobster, rum punch flowing freely. The view of English Harbour below is spectacular at last light. The Thursday edition is smaller and less frantic. Accessible by taxi from the marina (15 minutes) or on foot up the hill.
St John's
The capital has the best street food on the island — look for ducana and saltfish at the market on Friday and Saturday mornings. The Heritage Quay and Redcliffe Quay shopping areas are aimed at cruise ship passengers but have a few decent options. The Hemingways Caribbean Café on St Mary's Street is the reliable lunch stop — good local food, cold Wadadli beer (Antigua's own), and a terrace away from the tourist trade. Provisioning: the Epicurean supermarket near the roundabout on Old Parham Road is the best on the island.
Nevis and St Kitts
Charlestown on Nevis has the Sunshine's Beach Bar — the birthplace of the Killer Bee cocktail (rum, passion fruit, guava, local spices), which has been a pilgrimage destination for Caribbean sailors for decades. Sunshine Matheson will serve you personally if you arrive before noon. On St Kitts, the Marshall's Restaurant at the Frigate Bay area does good local cooking and is worth a taxi ride from the Basseterre marina.
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: When is lobster season in Antigua?
A: Lobster (spiny lobster, not the European clawed variety) is in season from September to April. Outside this period, most restaurants either do not serve it or use frozen product. The best lobster in Antigua is at Boom Restaurant in English Harbour and at Shirley Heights on Sunday evenings — arrive early as quantities are limited.
Q: What is Wadadli beer?
A: Wadadli is the national beer of Antigua, brewed locally under the Wadadli name (Wadadli was the original indigenous name for the island). It is a lager, light in body, and served very cold. It is the default beer at every local bar and restaurant. Carib (from Trinidad) is the main regional alternative.