Scotland's west coast is one of the great cruising grounds of the world. It is also demanding. The tidal streams in the Dorus Mòr, the Gulf of Corryvreckan, and the Sound of Islay run at up to 8 knots at springs; the weather changes faster than in any other cruising ground in this guide; and the infrastructure — fuel, provisions, mobile signal — is sparse outside Oban and Tarbert. Bring the right charts, a paper pilot book (the CCC Sailing Directions), and a skipper who has read them. The reward for preparation is scenery, anchorages, and wildlife that genuinely rival anywhere in the world.
Day 1: Oban — Preparation and Departure
Oban is the gateway to the Hebrides and the most complete sailing base on the west coast. Oban Marina is well-equipped; the town has chandleries, supermarkets, a distillery, and a fish and chip shop (Nicky Tams, on the waterfront) that is genuinely excellent. Provision generously — supplies become scarce once you leave Oban. Diesel is available at the marina pontoon.
The first passage south through the Firth of Lorne to Craobh Haven or Ardfern is straightforward, but check the tidal stream through the Sound of Luing if you are heading that way — it can run at 4 knots at springs and the overfalls off Cuan Point are rough in strong winds against the tide.
Day 2: Oban to Crinan — The Crinan Canal
The Crinan Canal cuts 9 miles across the Mull of Kintyre, saving a 60-mile passage around the exposed Mull. The canal has 15 locks and takes most of a day to transit — book in advance with Scottish Canals (scottishcanals.co.uk) as spaces are limited in summer. The canal is an experience in itself: herons fishing from the lock gates, otters in the reedbed, the smell of peat and oak woodland. Emerge at Crinan Basin into Loch Crinan with the Sound of Jura opening ahead.
Crinan itself is minimal — a hotel (the Crinan Hotel is worth a drink for the view from the rooftop bar), a few cottages, a small chandlery. Anchor in the basin or alongside if a berth is free.
Day 3: Crinan to Jura — Craighouse
The passage south through the Sound of Jura is straightforward on the flood. Craighouse on Jura's east coast is one of the finest anchorages on the west coast — a small settlement with the Isle of Jura distillery, a hotel, and about 200 residents. Anchor in the bay off the distillery or take a buoy if one is available. The distillery does tours; the Jura Hotel does lunches. Walk south along the road for views of the Paps of Jura.
Warning: The Corryvreckan — the third-largest whirlpool in the world — lies at the northern tip of Jura. Do not approach it without expert local knowledge and a neap tide. It has killed people.
Day 4: Jura to Islay — Port Ellen or Port Askaig
Islay (pronounced Eye-la) has eight distilleries and is the spiritual home of peated Scotch whisky. Port Ellen in the south is the main town — facilities, fuel, and the Ardbeg, Lagavulin, and Laphroaig distilleries within walking distance of the pier. Port Askaig in the north is smaller but closer to Caol Ila and Bunnahabhain. Both harbours are easy to approach. The ferry from Port Askaig to Feolin on Jura runs every few minutes — free for foot passengers.
Day 5: Islay — West Coast and the Mull of Oa
A day to explore by dinghy or on foot. The Mull of Oa, the southwestern tip of Islay, has a monument to the American troops who died when the troopship Tuscania was torpedoed off the coast in 1918. The Laggan Bay beach on the west coast is 7 miles of sand — empty in all but the height of summer. Return to Port Ellen for the night.
Day 6: Islay to Gigha — Sound of Islay
The Sound of Islay between Islay and Jura is another strong tidal passage — up to 6 knots at springs through the narrows. Time your northward passage on the flood and you will make 8 knots over the ground. Gigha (pronounced Ghee-a) is the gentlest island on the west coast — small, flat, and famous for the Achamore Garden, an extraordinary collection of rhododendrons and tender plants that flourish in the Gulf Stream climate. Anchor off Ardminish Bay or take a buoy.
Day 7: Gigha to Tarbert — Return
Tarbert on Loch Fyne is the mainland base for this part of the west coast. A proper fishing village that has remained so despite its charm: a working harbour, a fish market, good pubs, and a ruined castle above the town. From Tarbert it is a day's sail back north to Oban — through the Kyles of Bute if conditions allow, or direct up the Firth of Clyde.
Safety Notes
Scotland requires genuine passage planning. Download the CCC Sailing Directions before departure and cross-reference with the Imray charts (C65 and C64 cover this itinerary). Tidal streams through the narrows are not optional knowledge — they are the difference between a comfortable passage and a dangerous one. The RNLI Oban, Islay, and Campbeltown stations cover this area. VHF Channel 16 is monitored by Clyde Coastguard; relay through a shore station if out of direct range.
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: What qualifications do I need to sail west Scotland on a bareboat charter?
A: Most operators require RYA Coastal Skipper or equivalent, plus a logbook showing recent offshore experience. Day Skipper alone is not sufficient for the tidal passages in this itinerary. Be honest with your charter company.
Q: Is Scotland suitable in June?
A: June is one of the best months — long daylight hours (sunset after 2200 at the summer solstice), relatively settled weather, and midges that are less ferocious than in July and August. Sea temperature is cold year-round; a wetsuit or drysuit is not optional if you plan to swim.