A week in the Solent is not as limiting as it sounds. The stretch of water between the Hampshire coast and the Isle of Wight packs in more variety — tidal complexity, harbour character, passage challenges — than most cruising grounds twice its size. This itinerary is designed for a bareboat crew with Day Skipper level experience, departing from Lymington. Adjust passage times around your neaps or springs — the Solent is tidal and the difference matters.
Day 1: Lymington to Yarmouth
Lymington is a fine base. The Town Quay at high water, or the visitors' pontoons at the yacht haven, and a walk up the cobbled high street before departure. Leave on the first of the east-going flood — you want the tide with you through the western Solent and it runs hard past Hurst Narrows. Time it right and Yarmouth is an hour and a half away.
Yarmouth Harbour deserves its reputation. Town Quay berths or anchor in the roads — the holding is good mud. The George Hotel does an exceptional crab sandwich. Walk the pier in the evening and watch the ferries navigate through the moorings. The harbour dries at very low water springs on the southern edge, so check the tide before you anchor.
Day 2: Yarmouth, the Western Solent, Keyhaven
An easy day. Take the dinghy ashore in the morning and walk west along the coast to Fort Victoria — good swimming off the shingle beach. In the afternoon, sail or motor the short hop east to Keyhaven, anchoring in the lagoon if your draft allows (the entrance is shallow — less than 2m at MLWS). Keyhaven is raw and beautiful: saltmarsh, oystercatchers, and the brooding outline of Hurst Castle across the spit. No facilities, which is the point.
Day 3: Isle of Wight Circumnavigation — Western Half
Start this day early. The west-about circumnavigation works best leaving Yarmouth on the last of the west-going tide, giving you a fair stream around St Catherine's Point — the southernmost tip of the island and the location of the only significant overfalls on the route. In a fresh south-westerly with a foul tide, the seas off St Catherine's can be uncomfortable for a small boat; in settled conditions with a fair tide it is straightforward.
Round St Catherine's with enough water under you and bear away for Ventnor or Sandown Bay. Anchor in the bay if the forecast is settled — exposed to south and south-east but fine in north or west winds. The town beach at Sandown is very 1970s British seaside in the best possible way.
Day 4: Eastern Solent — Cowes
The eastern approach to Cowes on a flood tide puts you in time for a berth at the visitors' pontoons before they fill up. Cowes in summer is busy, noisy, and completely addictive — it is the heartbeat of British yacht racing. The chain ferry that runs across the mouth of the Medina river charges yachts a toll (and it has right of way; give it room). Town Quay for a quick visit; if you want a night aboard the Newport river is quieter and free.
Weather window: If you're planning the circumnavigation, check the forecast on Day 3 carefully. St Catherine's Point requires respect in anything above Force 5 from the south-west.
Day 5: Cowes to Portsmouth — Gunwharf Quays
Portsmouth Harbour is not the most scenic port of call, but the Historic Dockyard justifies a visit — HMS Victory, the Mary Rose, HMS Warrior. Berth at Gunwharf Quays pontoons (VHF 80) or pick up a visitor mooring in the harbour. The tidal streams through the harbour entrance run strongly — up to 4 knots at springs. Wait for slack water or use the transit marks.
Day 6: Portsmouth to Chichester Harbour
Chichester Harbour is a world apart from the busy commercial waters of Portsmouth. Cross the harbour bar at the entrance on the flood — the bar shifts and the water is shallow; approach on a rising tide and keep to the marked channel. Inside, the harbour opens into a network of creeks and channels: Emsworth, Bosham, Itchenor. Anchor off Bosham village and walk to the pub. The church at Bosham is worth seeing — it appears in the Bayeux Tapestry.
Day 7: Return to Lymington
A straightforward westward passage, timing the Looe Channel transit (the shortcut between the Winner bank and Hayling Island) for the flood. Leave early to arrive in Lymington on a rising tide, which gives you the option to anchor briefly in the Lymington River if the yacht haven is full. This passage is a good 4–5 hours in light airs; allow more if the wind is foul.
Safety Notes
The Solent's double high water — caused by the Isle of Wight deflecting the main Channel tide — gives you a long slack period, but tidal streams in the narrows and through the fairways run hard. A tidal atlas is not optional. Check the Met Office Inshore Waters Forecast each morning and listen to the Solent Coastguard weather broadcast on VHF Channel 86 at 0840 and 2040. The RNLI Yarmouth, Bembridge, and Calshot stations are all active — but the best plan is never needing them.
Provisioning and Fuel
Lymington, Yarmouth, Cowes, and Gosport all have fuel berths. Provisioning is easiest at Lymington (Waitrose in town) and at Gunwharf Quays. Yarmouth has a small Co-op. Top up fuel at Yarmouth — the pontoon is alongside and convenient — before heading south around St Catherine's.
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: Do I need to be a member of a yacht club to berth in the Solent?
A: No. Most marinas and harbour authorities operate on a pay-and-stay basis for visitors. Some Royal Yacht Squadron facilities in Cowes are members-only, but there is no shortage of alternatives.
Q: When is the best time to do this itinerary?
A: May to September. August is the busiest month — Cowes Week in early August means berths at Cowes itself are almost impossible without booking weeks ahead. June and September offer the best balance of weather and availability.
Q: Can I do this itinerary with young children aboard?
A: Yes, with a few adjustments. Skip Keyhaven if you need facilities nearby. Yarmouth, Cowes, and Chichester Harbour are all very family-friendly. The circumnavigation day (Day 3) should only be attempted in settled conditions.