The south-west of England is not the easiest cruising ground in this guide — tidal races off headlands, Atlantic swell in exposed anchorages, and weather that changes faster than the Solent. It is also, on a fair day with a fair wind, among the most beautiful. This itinerary runs east from Falmouth to Dartmouth over a week, covering Fowey, Salcombe, and the rivers and creeks of the south Devon coast. Experience matters: RYA Day Skipper practical is the minimum, and a log showing coastal passages is worth having before you tackle Lizard Point or the Bolt Tail.
Day 1: Falmouth — Base and Briefing
Falmouth is one of the world's great natural harbours — three rivers flowing into a wide, sheltered estuary. Penryn, the Fal, and the Truro River all offer anchorages. Spend the first day exploring: the National Maritime Museum Cornwall is genuinely excellent, the oyster boats on the river are working vessels that have been dredging under sail since the 1800s, and the Fal estuary has anchorages — St Just Creek, the Carrick Roads — that most visitors motor straight past.
Provisioning: Falmouth has a large Tesco near the marina and a covered market in the town centre. Fill the diesel tank at the marina — fuel is scarce at some stops east of here. Check the forecast carefully before planning Day 2: the passage around the Lizard is tide-dependent.
Day 2: Falmouth to Fowey — The Lizard Passage
This is the crux of the week. Lizard Point is the southernmost point of mainland Britain, and the tide rips past it at up to 3.5 knots at springs. The race off the Lizard, and the secondary race off Black Head, can be rough in strong south-westerly winds against a foul tide. Time your departure from Falmouth to carry a fair east-going tide past the Lizard — typically leaving HW Plymouth +3 for a neap passage. In settled weather with a light breeze, it is a straightforward motor-sail. In anything above Force 5 from the south-west, consider waiting.
Fowey more than justifies the passage. The harbour entrance between the two headlands opens into a deep, wooded estuary that has barely changed in a century. Berth at the visitors' pontoon on the east bank (VHF 12) or anchor in the upper harbour off Mixtow Pill. The town of Fowey climbs the hill above the quay: narrow streets, good bookshops, the house where Daphne du Maurier wrote Rebecca visible from the water.
Day 3: Fowey — Rest Day and River Exploration
The Fowey River is navigable by dinghy for several miles upstream to Lostwithiel. Take the tender up on the morning flood and explore the mudflats and oak woodland above the town. Back in Fowey, walk to Readymoney Cove — a small sandy beach fifteen minutes from the town quay — or take the ferry across to Polruan for lunch at the Russell Inn.
Day 4: Fowey to Salcombe — Around the Bolt
Another tide-dependent passage. The Bolt Tail and Bolt Head at the entrance to Salcombe require timing at neaps; at springs the race off Bolt Tail can be uncomfortable in a short south-westerly chop. Leave Fowey on the morning ebb to clear the coast by early afternoon and arrive at Salcombe on a rising tide. The Salcombe Bar — a sand and shingle bank across the entrance — dries at low water springs and carries only 0.5m at MLWS in places; enter on a rising tide with at least two hours before low water.
Inside, Salcombe is extraordinary. The estuary runs south-north for three miles, with the main town on the west bank and a series of creeks and beaches on the east. Anchor off Sunny Cove or take a visitor mooring from the harbour authority launch (VHF 14). The town itself is expensive and busy in summer, but the walking is excellent and the beaches at East Portlemouth, across the estuary, are some of the best in Devon.
Day 5: Salcombe — Kingsbridge River and Creeks
The upper reaches of the Kingsbridge Estuary are only navigable by dinghy at half tide and above, but the exploration is worth it. The head of the estuary at Kingsbridge town is a 6-mile row or motor by tender; the creeks off Frogmore and Bowcombe are quieter and closer. Crabbing off the pontoons with a bacon-baited line produces crabs for supper.
Day 6: Salcombe to Dartmouth
An easy day — 18 miles on a fair tide with the southerly breeze filling in by midmorning. The approach to Dartmouth from the south passes Start Point, which has a mild tidal race in strong winds; in moderate conditions it is straightforward. The Dartmouth harbour entrance is dramatic — high cliffs, the Dartmouth Castle to starboard, the imposing Kingswear Castle to port — and the harbour inside is beautiful and busy. Berth on the visitors' pontoons on the west bank or anchor off Dittisham in the upper river.
Dartmouth is a proper naval town with excellent pubs, the Dartmouth Museum, and the Britannia Royal Naval College visible on the hill above. The Dartmouth Food Festival in late October is the best food event in Devon, but book accommodation months ahead.
Day 7: Dartmouth — River Dart and Return
If your charter base is in Falmouth, allow two days for the return — the Lizard passage westward in a south-westerly can be slow and lumpy. If you are handing the boat back in Dartmouth or Plymouth (some operators allow one-way charters), explore the River Dart as far as Totnes by passenger ferry or tender before departure.
Safety Notes
The south-west is not a cruising ground for complacency. The Lizard, the Bolt, and Start Point all have significant tidal races. The Salcombe Bar has stranded boats that approached on a falling tide in southerly swell. Check the Met Office Inshore Waters Forecast each morning, plan your tidal gates carefully, and carry a pilot book — the Admiralty South West England pilot is the reference to have aboard. The RNLI Falmouth, Fowey, Salcombe, and Dart stations are all active.
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: Is south-west England suitable for first-time charterers?
A: Not bareboat, without additional experience. The tidal races, Atlantic swell, and rapidly changing weather require coastal sailing experience beyond what Day Skipper theory covers. First-timers should take a skippered charter — the same waters, with a professional managing the tidal gates.
Q: When is the best time to sail the south-west?
A: June and September. July and August are busy and the harbours fill quickly; the weather is no more reliable than June. May offers early-season calm but the water is cold.