The South West has more serious food than anywhere else on the British coast — a combination of exceptional raw ingredients (Cornish seafood, dairy, beef), a strong farming culture, and a clutch of chefs who chose to work here rather than in London. Almost every harbour worth stopping in has at least one place worth eating.
Padstow
Rick Stein's restaurants dominate the town and divide opinion, but the quality is consistent and the sourcing is genuinely local. The Seafood Restaurant (booking essential weeks ahead in summer) is the flagship; the Café, the Bistro, and the fish and chip shop on South Quay are more accessible. For something outside the Stein empire, try Paul Ainsworth at No. 6 on Middle Street — arguably the more technically accomplished kitchen in town, and with a wine list to match. The harbourmaster has visitor moorings on VHF 12.
Fowey
A beautiful estuary town with genuinely good restaurants. Sam's on the Fowey is the local institution — loud, unpretentious, excellent moules marinière and fish and chips. The King of Prussia pub is better for a quiet pint with good bar food. Bistro at the Marina does a solid set menu and is ideal for a pre-departure dinner if you're anchored off Town Quay. The Gallants Sailing Club welcomes visiting sailors and sells cheap drinks.
Salcombe
The Winking Prawn at North Sands is the summer lunch destination — crab sandwiches, fish tacos, and a terrace with estuary views. Accessible by dinghy or water taxi from the main anchorage. For dinner in town, the Salcombe Yacht Club dining room is open to members' guests and is the most civilised option. The South Sands Hotel restaurant is more formal and does an excellent Sunday roast. Provisioning: the Co-op in town is adequate; the Salcombe Dairy has exceptional ice cream.
Dartmouth
Rockfish on South Embankment is the best fish and chip restaurant in the estuary — seriously sourced, daily-changing menu based on the local catch. Alf Resco on Lower Street is a Mediterranean-leaning option that works well for a group with varied tastes. The Dartmouth Arms in Kingswear (across the river, ferry from the embankment) is a good local pub with better value food than the Dartmouth restaurants. The Royal Avenue Gardens are a ten-minute walk and have a good café for a morning coffee.
Falmouth
The Shed (Flushing, across the harbour by ferry) is the serious option — a tiny restaurant doing exceptional local seafood with a wine list that punches above the size of the room. Book weeks ahead. In Falmouth itself, Provedore on Church Street does good sharing plates and local cheese. The Chain Locker on Custom House Quay is the classic sailors' pub — no-nonsense food, good Cornish ales, and a terrace on the water.
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: Do Cornish harbours have water taxis to get ashore for dinner?
A: Fowey, Salcombe, and Dartmouth all have water taxi services operating in season (typically May to September). Falmouth has a passenger ferry between the town quay and Flushing. In Padstow, the visitor moorings are close enough to the town quay to dinghy ashore easily. Check local harbour authority notices for current services.
Q: When should I book restaurants in the South West?
A: For the serious places (Seafood Restaurant Padstow, Paul Ainsworth, The Shed Flushing) you need to book weeks ahead in July and August — some open booking a month in advance. For casual fish and chips and pub food, walk-ins work outside peak season but expect queues on summer weekends.