The South West coast of England is the most exposed cruising ground in Britain. The prevailing south-westerly swell — generated across thousands of miles of open Atlantic — wraps around headlands and into harbour entrances that look benign on the chart. Several harbours on this coast are only accessible in settled conditions and some dry completely at low water. Careful weather routing and honest assessment of prevailing conditions are non-negotiable here.
The Major Headlands
Land's End, Lizard Point, and Start Point are the three significant passages on the south-west coast, each with specific risks. Land's End: the Longships lighthouse marks the outermost rocks; give it at least one mile offing in any swell from the south-west, and pass well north of the Runnelstone shoal (1.5M south of the Lizard Peninsula). Lizard Point: overfalls extend 2–3M south of the point in a westerly swell and spring ebb — the area between the Lizard and the Manacle rocks (5M NNE) is particularly rough in a south-westerly on the ebb. Start Point: a tidal race extends 2M south of the headland at springs; pass inside in settled conditions but keep well clear in any south-going swell.
Bar Harbours: Padstow, Bude, and Hayle
These three North Cornwall/Devon harbours all have shifting bars that dry or have very shallow water at low tide and become dangerous to enter in any onshore swell. Padstow's Doom Bar has claimed hundreds of ships; entry in a ground swell from the north-west is not advisable even at high water. Request local guidance from the harbourmaster (VHF 12) before attempting entry. Bude and Hayle are effectively inaccessible for visiting yachts and are not on any standard offshore itinerary.
Tidal Streams off the Headlands
The tidal stream off major headlands in the South West is faster than the offshore rate — typically 2–4 knots off the Lizard and Start, accelerating to 5 knots in the Portland Race (the most dangerous area, relevant if your passage continues east). Plan headland passages for slack water or a favourable tide; arriving at a headland against 3 knots of adverse tide and a building south-westerly swell is uncomfortable at best.
Key Harbours: Entry Notes
Falmouth: deep-water entrance, well marked, accessible in most conditions. The best refuge on the south Cornwall coast. VHF 12 for Port Pendennis Marina, VHF 74 for Falmouth Harbour. Fowey: narrow entrance, well marked, lit. Beware commercial shipping — Port of Fowey VHF 12 controls traffic. The anchorage off Readymoney Cove is clear of the fairway. Salcombe: bar entry — minimum 0.5M depth at LWS in the main channel, but seas break across the bar in a south-westerly swell even at high water. Check Salcombe Harbour (VHF 14) for current bar conditions.
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: What weather window do I need to round Land's End?
A: A forecast of Force 4 or less from the south-west, with no swell above 1.5m, gives a comfortable passage. Time your rounding for slack water — the north-going flood runs from HW Devonport minus 5 hours; the south-going ebb from HW Devonport. A passage timed to carry the flood north reduces the windward slog up the Bristol Channel if you are continuing north.
Q: Is the Padstow Bar dangerous?
A: Yes, in any north-west swell. The Doom Bar is a shifting sandbank inside the Camel estuary entrance that has caused hundreds of wrecks over centuries. Call Padstow Harbour (VHF 12) before approaching; they will advise on current bar depth and conditions. Do not attempt entry if there is any visible breaking water on the bar, regardless of the charted depth.