The Ionian is the right choice for a first Mediterranean charter. The summer winds are predictable — the meltemi builds from the north each afternoon and dies by evening — the tides are negligible, the anchorages are well-charted, and the sailing distances between islands are short enough to leave time to actually be somewhere rather than always heading somewhere. This itinerary starts and finishes in Nidri on Lefkada, the main charter base for the island, and loops south through Meganisi, Ithaca, and Kefalonia.
Day 1: Nidri to Meganisi — Vathy or Spartochori
Leave Nidri after the morning briefing and provisioning — the supermarkets near the waterfront are well-stocked. Meganisi is twenty minutes south by engine or a gentle sail in the afternoon breeze. The island has three main anchorages: Vathy (the main village, with a stern-to quay and tavernas), Spartochori (a tiny port with a clifftop village above it), and Porto Spiglia (a landlocked bay on the south coast that is one of the finest anchorages in the Ionian).
Porto Spiglia is the one to aim for on Day 1 — it fills up in August, so arrive before 1500. Anchor in 5–8m on sand and weed, take a line to the quay if you want, or just anchor free. The water is clear enough to see the bottom in 8m. The taverna at the head of the bay serves grilled fish caught that morning.
Day 2: Meganisi to Ithaca — Kioni or Frikes
An easy day sail south, approximately 20 miles. The meltemi will have built by early afternoon — leave by 0930 to have a comfortable sail rather than a beat. Ithaca (Ithaki) is Homer's island, the home of Odysseus, and it looks exactly as a mythological island should: steep wooded slopes falling to small coves, a harbour with white houses reflected in still water.
Kioni is the most beautiful village on the island — probably one of the most beautiful in the Ionian. Stern-to on the quay or anchor in the bay. The village has survived tourist development largely intact: three windmills on the headland, wisteria-covered houses, two or three tavernas. Frikes, a few miles north, is less scenic but has more facilities and is easier to enter in strong meltemi conditions.
Day 3: Ithaca — Vathy and Sailing Day
Spend the morning in Vathy, the capital of Ithaca — a large, sheltered harbour that rarely gets uncomfortable even in strong meltemi. Walk up to the Archaeological Museum (small, excellent), buy honey from one of the roadside stalls (Ithacan honey is locally famous), and eat lunch at the waterfront. In the afternoon, sail or motor across to the western coast of Kefalonia — 8 miles.
Day 4: Kefalonia — Fiskardo
Fiskardo is the only village on Kefalonia to survive the 1953 earthquake intact. It looks like a film set — Venetian-era houses in terracotta and ochre, a waterfront that is one enormous restaurant terrace in summer, the ruins of a Byzantine lighthouse on the headland. It is also the most expensive stop on this itinerary and the most crowded. Go anyway.
Berth stern-to on the main quay (first-come, first-served) or pick up a buoy in the bay. Anchor in the outer bay if the quay is full — reasonable holding in 6–10m. The meltemi blows through the channel between Kefalonia and Lefkada; if it is fresh, the anchorage can be rolly.
Day 5: Kefalonia — Assos and the West Coast
Assos is a Venetian fortress village on a peninsula connected to the main island by a narrow isthmus. The approach by sea is one of the most dramatic in the Ionian: steep limestone cliffs, a deep blue bay, and the fortress ruins on the skyline. Anchor in the bay — excellent holding in 4–8m on sand. The village has a handful of tavernas and not much else, which is exactly right.
Sail or motor down the west coast in the morning meltemi if it is blowing — the cliffs provide wind shadow close in, but 200m offshore it can be fresh. Return to Fiskardo for the night if you want facilities, or anchor off the north tip of Ithaca.
Day 6: Return North — Meganisi or Lefkada Town
An easy northward sail back through the channel. Stop at Meganisi again if Porto Spiglia was too crowded on Day 1, or push on to Lefkada Town — the island's capital, a 20-minute motor from the drawbridge that connects the island to the mainland causeway. Lefkada Town has a proper chandlery, a fuel berth, and a good central market. It is less touristy than Nidri and worth a morning.
Day 7: Return to Nidri
An easy morning — Nidri is twenty minutes south of Lefkada Town by engine. Hand the boat back clean and fuelled, settle the harbour dues (keep your receipts), and allow at least two hours for the formal return. Book the following night's accommodation ashore in advance — do not count on being able to stay aboard after handover.
Weather and Sailing Conditions
The Ionian summer meltemi blows from the north or north-west, typically Force 3–4 by midday and dying by sunset. It is reliable in July and August and provides comfortable reaching and running conditions on most passages in this itinerary. The exception is the Kefalonia Channel, where the meltemi can accelerate and create a short, steep chop. Leave early, sail downwind, and you will have an easy week.
Check the Poseidon system weather forecast (poseidon.hcmr.gr) each morning. Greek VHF weather broadcasts are in Greek only — the Poseidon website has English-language forecasts.
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: Do I need sailing qualifications for a bareboat charter in Greece?
A: Greek law requires a valid sailing licence for bareboat charter. The RYA Day Skipper (practical) or ICC is generally accepted. Some operators also accept a national VHF radio certificate. Check with your charter company before you travel — requirements vary.
Q: When is the best time to sail the Ionian?
A: May, June, and September offer the best combination of good weather, predictable winds, and manageable crowds. July and August are hot, busy, and expensive — but the meltemi is reliable and the sailing is excellent if you don't mind sharing anchorages.
Q: Is the Ionian suitable for children?
A: Yes — the Ionian is one of the best Mediterranean destinations for family sailing. Short passages, calm anchorages with clear water, shallow beaches for swimming, and child-friendly tavernas everywhere.