Ionian food is not quite the same as Greek food — it was shaped by four centuries of Venetian rule, and the cuisine reflects it. You will find pasta dishes alongside the mezze, and a tradition of slow-cooked meat in rich sauces that has more in common with Venetian and Southern Italian cooking than with the Aegean islands. The waterfront taverna remains the main venue: arrive after 9pm, order slowly, and expect to stay.
Fiskardo, Kefalonia
Fiskardo has the best collection of restaurants in the Ionian and correspondingly the highest prices. Tassia is the most famous — run by the same family since 1978, a cookbook author in residence, reliably good fish. The restaurant occupies a prime position on the harbour and is genuinely good rather than just famous. Vasso's is the local alternative — more casual, better value, similar quality of grilled fish. Both are busy all season; arrive before 7pm or after 9.30pm to avoid the worst of the charter-boat dinner rush.
Sivota, Lefkada
The most beautiful anchorage in the Ionian also has the best simple taverna eating. Nidri's restaurants are crowded and overpriced; Sivota's are not. The Restaurant Stavros has tables on the jetty and serves the local catch — red mullet (barbouni), sea bream (tsipoura), and small squid grilled whole. Ask for the bourdeto if it is on the menu — a Corfiot speciality of fish simmered in a red pepper and tomato sauce that appears occasionally in southern Lefkada tavernas.
Gaios, Paxos
The village square at Gaios has five or six tavernas competing for the same boats, and quality varies. Taka Taka on the north side of the square is consistently the most reliable — good grilled meats, honest mezze, and a kitchen that cooks to order rather than warming pre-prepared dishes. The Olive Press is the more upmarket option and does a reasonable attempt at updated Greek cuisine. Avoid the restaurants with laminated photo menus on the waterfront — they are aimed at day-trippers from the ferry.
Frikes, Ithaca
The small port of Frikes on the north coast of Ithaca has three tavernas and all three are good — the competition is healthy. Kiki's taverna at the end of the quay is the local favourite: simple grilled fish, homemade tzatziki, cold Fix beer. The terrace looks directly into the anchorage. Order the grilled octopus if there is any hanging outside to dry — it has been cured in the sun for at least a day and is infinitely better than the frozen product served in tourist restaurants.
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: What is the difference between Ionian and Aegean Greek food?
A: The Ionian islands were under Venetian control from the 13th to 18th centuries, which left a strong culinary imprint. You find pasta (pastitsada on Corfu uses bucatini), slow-cooked meat dishes with rich tomato sauces (sofrito, stifado), and a tradition of baking rather than just grilling. The mezze culture is present but less dominant than in the Aegean. Local wines — Robola from Kefalonia, Verdea from Zakynthos — are distinctive and good.
Q: Is it better to eat lunch or dinner at Ionian tavernas?
A: Lunch is quieter and often cheaper for the same food. Many tavernas do a fixed-price lunch in season (a main, bread, and a carafe of house wine for €15–20 per head). The evening ambience is better but the prices are higher and the kitchens are under more pressure. If you are anchoring for the night, eat dinner locally; if you are passing through, a long lunch is the better value.