The Ionian Islands have been at the intersection of Greek, Venetian, Ottoman, and British cultures for centuries, and the result is a more varied landscape of sights than the uniform whitewash of the Cyclades. The architecture changes island by island; so does the food, the dialect, and the history. A week in the Ionian gives you a different kind of cultural depth than the more-visited Aegean islands.
Melissani Cave, Kefalonia
A partially collapsed sea cave on the north-east coast of Kefalonia, containing a subterranean lake open to the sky where the collapsed roof lets in a shaft of light that turns the water an extraordinary translucent blue-green at midday. Boat tours run on the lake; the visit takes around 20 minutes. Entry is around €10. The cave is 3km from the fishing village of Sami on Kefalonia's east coast — taxi from the harbour (Sami has a small visitors' quay).
Combine with Drogarati Cave nearby (stalactites and stalagmites, occasional concerts in the main chamber) for a half-day inland excursion from Sami.
Ancient Ithaca — Vathy and the Archaeology
Whether or not Homer's Odysseus actually lived on Ithaca is a question archaeologists have debated for a century. The island certainly has Bronze Age remains, and the small Vathy Archaeological Museum contains finds from various sites around the island — the star exhibits are two terracotta masks dedicated to Odysseus and a 2nd-millennium BC tripod. Entry is minimal. The museum opens unpredictable hours in shoulder season — ask at the harbour master's office for the current schedule.
The monastery of Kathara, on the ridge above Vathy, is accessible by hire car or on foot (steep) and has extraordinary views across the whole of Ithaca and the surrounding sea. The 18th-century icon of the Panagia is one of the most venerated in the Ionian.
Fiskardo, Kefalonia
The only Ionian village to survive the 1953 earthquake intact, Fiskardo looks like a Venetian stage set — terracotta and ochre houses with carved stone details, a cypress-lined waterfront, and a ruined Byzantine lighthouse on the headland a ten-minute walk north of the harbour. The lighthouse ruins are accessible on foot along the coastal path; the views back to the harbour and across the channel to Lefkada are outstanding. Entry is free and the path is manageable in deck shoes.
Porto Katsiki Beach, Lefkada
A white pebble beach at the foot of 100m limestone cliffs on the south-west coast of Lefkada — consistently ranked among the most beautiful beaches in Greece. There is no road to the beach itself; access is by boat or by a long staircase from the clifftop car park above. From a yacht, anchor off the beach in 4–8m (sandy bottom) and swim ashore or use a dinghy. The beach is at its best in early morning before the day-trip boats arrive. In strong north-west winds, the anchorage is untenable — check the forecast before committing to an overnight stay nearby.
Antipaxos — Voutoumi and Vrika Beaches
Two beaches of pure white sand and water of an improbable turquoise at the southern end of the small island of Antipaxos, 2 miles south of Paxos. The island has no permanent population and no facilities beyond the beach tavernas open in summer. Anchor off either beach in 3–6m on sand — excellent holding. The water is shallow enough to see the anchor from the deck. Arrive before 1000 in July and August to secure a spot before the day trip boats from Paxos and Corfu fill the anchorage.
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: Is Melissani Cave worth the detour to Sami?
A: Yes, particularly around solar noon in summer when the light through the roof opening is at its most dramatic. The 20-minute boat tour is short but the cave is genuinely unusual. Combine it with Sami's reasonable tavernas and the short passage across to Ithaca and it makes an excellent day.
Q: Can I anchor at Porto Katsiki overnight?
A: In settled north-east or east winds, the anchorage off the beach is reasonable overnight. The cliff face provides shelter from those directions. In any north-west wind — which is the prevailing summer direction — the anchorage becomes exposed and uncomfortable. Most crews visit on a day stop and anchor overnight at Vassiliki on the south coast of Lefkada, 10 miles east.