The Ionian has more good anchorages than a week's charter can cover. What follows are the ones that justify planning your itinerary around them — with approach notes, holding quality, facilities, and honest verdicts on the tavernas.
Porto Spiglia, Meganisi
The finest anchorage in the southern Ionian. Porto Spiglia is a landlocked bay on the south coast of Meganisi — deep enough for any yacht, sheltered from all directions, and with a single taverna at the head of the bay that serves fresh fish in the evening. The water is clear to 10m. In July and August it fills up by 1500; arrive early or accept that you will be anchoring in the second row.
Approach: Enter from the south-east. The entrance is straightforward — a gap in the cliffs leads into a circular bay. Give the headland on the port side a reasonable berth. Anchor in 5–8m on sand; holding is generally good but weed patches exist. Mediterranean moor to the quay if you want power and water.
The taverna: The Spiglia taverna (there is only one) serves grilled fish, octopus, and Greek salad. The calamari is excellent. They accept euros; the bill will be modest by UK standards.
Kioni, Ithaca
Probably the most photogenic village in the Ionian. Kioni sits at the head of a small bay in the north-east of Ithaca, with three ruined windmills on the headland above and a waterfront lined with traditional houses. It has survived the tourism that has changed many Ionian villages — partly because it is small, partly because there is nothing particularly commercial about it.
Approach: From the north, enter the bay keeping the green starboard buoy to starboard. The quay is on the south side of the bay — stern-to, port side to for most berths. The bay is also anchorable in settled conditions (anchor in 5–10m off the quay). The meltemi funnel through the strait between Ithaca and Lefkada and can make Kioni rolly in strong north-westerlies; Frikes, 3 miles north, is better in those conditions.
Eat: Calypso restaurant on the waterfront has been here for decades and earns its reputation. Book ahead in August.
Fiskardo, Kefalonia
The only village on Kefalonia spared by the 1953 earthquake. Fiskardo has Venetian-era architecture, a harbour full of expensive charter boats, and a waterfront that is entirely given over to restaurants. It is expensive, crowded, and non-negotiable on any Ionian itinerary.
Approach: Enter from the north — the channel between Kefalonia and Ithaca is deep and well-marked. Fiskardo harbour is on the west side of the channel. Berth stern-to on the main quay (the harbour master collects dues in the evening) or pick up a privately-laid buoy in the outer bay — check the buoy is secure before leaving the boat. Anchoring in the outer bay is possible but the meltemi can make it uncomfortable.
Note on costs: Fiskardo is the most expensive harbour on this route. Budget accordingly — quay fees, restaurant prices, and provisioning are all higher than elsewhere in the Ionian.
Assos, Kefalonia
A Venetian fortress on a peninsula above a small bay. Assos is less visited than Fiskardo and more rewarding for it. The village at the base of the peninsula has three or four tavernas and a small beach. The fortress above is worth the forty-minute walk — the views across to Ithaca and north towards Lefkada are exceptional.
Approach: The bay at Assos is open to the south-west. In settled summer conditions it is perfectly comfortable. Anchor in 4–8m on sand — excellent holding. The village quay is small and mainly used by local fishing boats; anchor off rather than attempting to berth.
Sivota, Lefkada
A small fjord on the south-east coast of Lefkada. Sivota is deep — you can anchor in 10–20m close to the shore — and almost completely landlocked. The entrance is narrow but poses no difficulty in daylight. A cluster of tavernas lines the quay; the atmosphere in the evening is excellent. The anchorage can be crowded in peak season but rarely uncomfortable.
Vathy, Meganisi
The main village of Meganisi and the island's port of entry. Less atmospheric than Porto Spiglia but more practical — water, fuel by jerry can, a small supermarket. Berth stern-to on the main quay or anchor in the outer bay. The village above is worth the walk for the views south towards Kefalonia.
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: Is anchoring free in the Ionian?
A: Generally yes. Some anchorages (particularly those with tavernas) have privately-laid buoys that come with an expectation of eating at the associated restaurant — the buoy is free if you do, charged if you don't. Harbour authority dues are collected at most quays — typically €10–20 per night for a yacht up to 12m.
Q: What holding is like in the Ionian?
A: Variable. Sand holds well; weed patches can cause the anchor to drag. Always let out at least 4:1 scope and set the anchor properly before leaving the boat. In Porto Spiglia, the holding is good but check before relying on it overnight.
Q: What's the best anchorage for a first night in the Ionian?
A: Porto Spiglia or Sivota — both well-sheltered, easy approach, excellent tavernas. Save Fiskardo for when you've found your sea legs.